Family-owned and trusted by hundreds of Longueuil homeowners since 2009. Fast, reliable repairs for every major brand — backed by our 90-day parts and labor warranty.
Our certified technicians arrive with stocked vans to fix your appliance on the first visit — 93% of repairs completed during the first call.
Same-day service available — call now before it gets worse.
1,570+
Jobs Done
87%
Repeat Customers
15+
Years Service
93%
First Visit Fix
As Reviewed On
For over 15 years, we've been the go-to appliance repair team for Longueuil homeowners. We're your neighbors — our certified technicians live and work right here, serving Vieux-Longueuil, Saint-Hubert, and Greenfield Park every single day.
We understand the unique needs of our community — from older homes in historic Vieux-Longueuil with vintage appliances to modern condos in Saint-Hubert and family homes in Greenfield Park. We know which brands dominate which neighborhoods, what parts to stock for South Shore homes, and how to get there fast.
We don't cut corners: we use only genuine OEM parts, back every repair with a 90-day warranty, and treat every home like our own. That's why 87% of our customers come back to us when something else breaks. Reliable, local, and family-owned — we're proud to be Longueuil's own.
(450) 489-9024
Genuine OEM parts and certified expertise for every major appliance brand on the market.
We also service rare European imports, discontinued models, and commercial-grade units. Chances are, we've fixed yours before.
Free Diagnostic Tool
Pick your appliance, tell us what's wrong, and get an instant technical answer — no signup, no email required.
Step 1 of 3
What's giving you trouble?
Step 2 of 3
Fridge — what's wrong?
Step 2 of 3
Washer — what's wrong?
Step 2 of 3
Dryer — what's wrong?
Step 2 of 3
Dishwasher — what's wrong?
Step 2 of 3
Stove — what's wrong?
Step 2 of 3
Oven — what's wrong?
Step 3 of 3
Fridge › Not cooling properly
◆ Likely Cause
Most commonly caused by dirty condenser coils, a worn door seal, or incorrect temperature settings. Coils accumulate dust over time, forcing the compressor to overwork.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If cooling doesn't improve within 24 hours, the sealed system or compressor likely needs certified diagnosis.
Step 3 of 3
Fridge › Loud humming or buzzing
◆ Likely Cause
Either the compressor working harder than normal (often due to dirty coils), or the evaporator/condenser fan motor showing wear.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Persistent grinding or knocking sounds usually indicate a failing compressor or fan motor — both need professional replacement.
Step 3 of 3
Fridge › Water pooling inside or under
◆ Likely Cause
Most often a blocked defrost drain line (water inside) or a leaking ice maker water inlet valve (water underneath).
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If the drain clears but water returns, the drain heater or pan may need replacement. Active leaks should be addressed quickly to prevent floor damage.
Step 3 of 3
Fridge › Ice maker not working
◆ Likely Cause
Usually a frozen water supply line, clogged water filter, or the ice maker's on/off switch accidentally disabled.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If still no ice, the water inlet valve, solenoid, or ice maker motor likely needs replacement — we'll diagnose precisely on-site.
Step 3 of 3
Washer › Won't drain
◆ Likely Cause
Almost always a clogged drain pump filter or a kinked drain hose. The filter catches everything from coins to lint and blocks over time.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If the filter is clean and the hose is clear, the drain pump motor itself has failed — a quick professional replacement.
Step 3 of 3
Washer › Loud noise during spin
◆ Likely Cause
Usually foreign objects (coins, keys, underwire) caught between the drum and tub, or worn drum bearings showing their age.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
A loud grinding or rumbling that's worsened over time signals failing drum bearings — a major repair usually only worth it on newer machines.
Step 3 of 3
Washer › Won't start / door locked
◆ Likely Cause
Often a door latch sensor issue or a control board reset needed after a power surge.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If reset doesn't work, the door lock mechanism, control board, or wiring harness needs diagnosis — common but requires a technician.
Step 3 of 3
Washer › Showing an error code
◆ Likely Cause
Error codes vary by brand but most indicate one of: drainage failure, door lock issue, temperature sensor fault, or water level error.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Recurring codes need proper diagnosis with brand-specific tools. Tell us the code when you call — we'll arrive with the right parts.
Step 3 of 3
Dryer › Takes too long to dry
◆ Likely Cause
Most common cause is restricted airflow due to a clogged lint trap or blocked vent line. Weakening heating elements come second.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If airflow is unrestricted but drying still takes hours, the heating element or moisture sensor is worn — both are affordable professional repairs.
Step 3 of 3
Dryer › No heat at all
◆ Likely Cause
Usually a blown thermal fuse (safety device that trips on overheating), burned-out heating element, or for gas dryers, a faulty igniter.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Thermal fuse replacement is affordable and common. If you've replaced one before and it's gone again, the underlying airflow issue must be resolved first.
Step 3 of 3
Dryer › Drum won't turn
◆ Likely Cause
Almost always a broken drive belt or, less commonly, a failed motor, broken idler pulley, or door switch issue.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Belt replacement is straightforward but requires partial disassembly. We carry the most common belt sizes on the truck.
Step 3 of 3
Dryer › Loud squeaking or thumping
◆ Likely Cause
Worn drum rollers (high-pitched squeak), failed idler pulley (rhythmic squeak), or drum support bearings (deep thumping).
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
These parts wear gradually but eventually fail completely. Replacing rollers and the idler pulley together is the most cost-effective approach.
Step 3 of 3
Dishwasher › Not draining
◆ Likely Cause
Usually a clogged filter at the bottom of the tub, food debris in the drain pump, or a kinked drain hose behind the unit.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If filter is clean and hose isn't kinked, the drain pump impeller may be jammed or the motor has failed — a quick professional replacement.
Step 3 of 3
Dishwasher › Leaking water
◆ Likely Cause
Most often a damaged door gasket, an overloaded dishwasher pushing water past the seal, or a cracked spray arm spraying water past the door.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Persistent leaks despite gasket cleaning indicate a worn seal, pump leak, or hose connection failure — we'll trace the source instead of guessing.
Step 3 of 3
Dishwasher › Dishes coming out dirty
◆ Likely Cause
Clogged spray arm holes are the #1 cause, followed by hard water buildup on the heating element and low incoming water pressure.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If cleaning the spray arms doesn't help, the pump motor may be weak, the water inlet valve restricted, or the float switch stuck — all common but require diagnosis.
Step 3 of 3
Dishwasher › Won't start
◆ Likely Cause
Usually the door isn't latched fully, the child lock is engaged, or a power issue at the breaker panel.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If none of those resolve it, the door latch switch, touchpad, or control board needs testing. A diagnostic call is the fastest way to identify which.
Step 3 of 3
Stove › Gas burner won't ignite
◆ Likely Cause
Most commonly a clogged burner port preventing gas flow to the igniter spark, or a wet/dirty igniter ceramic.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If you hear clicking but get no flame, the spark module or gas valve needs replacement — professional repair for safety reasons.
Step 3 of 3
Stove › Electric coil won't heat
◆ Likely Cause
Bad terminal connection where the coil plugs in, a burned-out coil, or a faulty infinite switch (the knob that controls heat level).
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Coils and terminal blocks are inexpensive parts but require electrical disassembly. We'll replace burned terminals (a fire hazard) at the same time.
Step 3 of 3
Stove › Glass cooktop sensor error
◆ Likely Cause
Usually a dirty surface confusing touch sensors, a cracked glass affecting capacitive controls, or a control board fault.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Glass cooktops require specialized service. Sensor replacement or board diagnosis is not DIY-safe — call us for safe repair.
Step 3 of 3
Stove › Knob broken or loose
◆ Likely Cause
Stripped knob stem (the splined plastic that connects knob to valve), broken internal clip, or worn valve shaft.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If the valve shaft itself is damaged (not just the knob), we'll need to access the gas valve underneath — a more involved repair.
Step 3 of 3
Oven › Not heating properly
◆ Likely Cause
The bake element (bottom) or broil element (top) has burned out, or the temperature sensor is sending wrong readings to the control board.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Element replacement is common and affordable — usually under an hour. Sensor faults require multimeter testing to confirm.
Step 3 of 3
Oven › Temperature inaccurate
◆ Likely Cause
Most ovens drift 10-25°F off setpoint over years due to thermostat wear. Some brands allow calibration adjustments without parts replacement.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
If actual temperature differs by more than 25°F or won't hold steady, the temperature sensor or control board needs professional service.
Step 3 of 3
Oven › Door won't close fully
◆ Likely Cause
Bent or worn door hinges, debris in hinge channels, or a sagging gasket pushing the door slightly out of alignment.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Hinge replacement requires removing the entire door, which is heavier than it looks. Worn gaskets affect cooking efficiency and should be replaced together.
Step 3 of 3
Oven › Self-clean failed / door locked
◆ Likely Cause
Self-clean's extreme temperatures often blow the thermal fuse — a safety device that disables the oven. The door may stay locked because of this.
⚙ Try This First
Still Not Working?
Blown thermal fuses are extremely common after self-clean cycles. The repair is straightforward but requires accessing the back — we'll arrive with the part.
What Customers Say
Verified reviews from Longueuil and South Shore residents — real names, real problems, real outcomes.
Maria L.
Our Bosch dishwasher flooded the kitchen the morning of our anniversary. Called at 8am, technician arrived by noon, fixed in under an hour. Saved our evening completely.
David T.
Fridge stopped cooling but the freezer worked. Two other companies wanted to replace the compressor. This guy opened it up, found the evaporator fan was stuck. Honest diagnosis, real explanation. Will use again.
Sophie B.
Bearing replacement on my LG washer. No pressure, no upselling. Just fixed what was broken. Still working great 4 months later.
Marc-André R.
Smelled gas near my Whirlpool stove on a Sunday morning. The technician walked me through shutting off the valve while he was on his way. Showed up in about 90 minutes, found a faulty burner valve, pressure-tested everything before he left. Professional from start to finish.
Jennifer K.
Dryer was taking forever to dry clothes. Turned out the vent line was packed with lint — apparently a fire risk. Cleaned the whole system and showed me how to keep it clean myself. Felt like I actually learned something.
Robert M.
Third time using them. Same technician shows up each visit. Bake element on my KitchenAid oven failed, replaced in under an hour. Reliable people.
Get in Touch
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(450) 489-9024
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Address
50 Rue Saint-Charles, Unit #300
Longueuil, QC J4H 1C6
Operating Hours
Mon — Sun · 7:00 AM — 11:00 PM
Same-day service available
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Service Areas
Same-day appliance repair service across every borough and neighborhood — from Vieux-Longueuil to Greenfield Park.
Neighborhoods
Districts We Serve
Vieux-Longueuil
Saint-Hubert
Greenfield Park
Le Vieux-Saint-Hubert
Laflèche
Iberville
Le Mackayville
Vieux-Greenfield Park
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