Same-Day Appliance Repair

Appliance Repair
Longueuil

Family-owned and trusted by hundreds of Longueuil homeowners since 2009. Fast, reliable repairs for every major brand — backed by our 90-day parts and labor warranty.

Our certified technicians arrive with stocked vans to fix your appliance on the first visit — 93% of repairs completed during the first call.

Same-day service available — call now before it gets worse.

1,570+

Jobs Done

87%

Repeat Customers

15+

Years Service

93%

First Visit Fix

Longueuil Appliance Care service van

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Longueuil's Choice
Since 2009

For over 15 years, we've been the go-to appliance repair team for Longueuil homeowners. We're your neighbors — our certified technicians live and work right here, serving Vieux-Longueuil, Saint-Hubert, and Greenfield Park every single day.

We understand the unique needs of our community — from older homes in historic Vieux-Longueuil with vintage appliances to modern condos in Saint-Hubert and family homes in Greenfield Park. We know which brands dominate which neighborhoods, what parts to stock for South Shore homes, and how to get there fast.

We don't cut corners: we use only genuine OEM parts, back every repair with a 90-day warranty, and treat every home like our own. That's why 87% of our customers come back to us when something else breaks. Reliable, local, and family-owned — we're proud to be Longueuil's own.

(450) 489-9024
Longueuil Appliance Care technician with service van in Longueuil neighborhood

Appliance Repair Services
in Longueuil

Fridge Repair

Spoiled groceries can cost more than the repair itself — which is why we don't guess at problems or swap parts hoping something works. Our technicians pinpoint the actual fault within thirty minutes of arrival, whether the issue lives in the sealed system, the defrost circuit, or simply a clogged drain line behind the back panel. Most fridges run cold again before we pack up.

What We Fix

  • Compressor failures — running but not cooling, loud humming
  • Defrost system faults — frost buildup, water under crispers
  • Ice maker malfunctions — no ice, leaks, jammed dispenser
  • Door seal degradation — warm interior, condensation
  • Evaporator fan and thermostat issues — uneven cooling
Learn More
Modern refrigerator repair Longueuil

Washer Repair

Mid-cycle washer failures leave you with soaked laundry, a locked drum, and water on the floor all at once. We unlock and drain the machine before anything else, then walk you through exactly what failed and quote the complete repair cost before tools come out. No upselling, no surprise charges at the end, no swapping parts that didn't actually need replacing.

What We Fix

  • Drainage failures — water pooling, pump or hose blockages
  • Drum bearing wear — grinding or screeching during spin
  • Motor coupling and belt failures — drum won't agitate or spin
  • Door lock and gasket issues — error codes, leaks during wash
  • Inlet valve faults — slow filling, no water, or overfilling
Learn More
Front-load washer repair Longueuil

Dryer Repair

Lint-clogged dryer vents cause more home fires than any other appliance issue, and the warning signs are subtle enough that most homeowners never notice them. Beyond the immediate repair, we inspect the heating system, vent line, and full exhaust path on every visit. If we spot a fire hazard during the work, you'll hear about it on the spot — never after something goes wrong.

What We Fix

  • Heating element burnout — clothes tumbling cold or damp
  • Drive belt and idler pulley wear — drum stops, loud squealing
  • Thermal fuse and thermostat failures — shuts off mid-cycle
  • Vent blockages — long drying times, hot exterior, fire risk
  • Door switch and timer faults — won't start or stops randomly
Learn More
Front-load dryer repair Longueuil

Dishwasher Repair

Slow leaks from a struggling dishwasher quietly destroy your kitchen — cabinet bases rot from below, mineral buildup ruins door seals, and ineffective wash cycles drive your water bill higher every month. We trace each symptom back to its real root cause instead of just stopping what's visible. That's how our repairs hold up long after we leave the driveway.

What We Fix

  • Pump and motor failures — water not circulating, dirty dishes
  • Heating element issues — wet dishes at end of cycle
  • Spray arm clogs and damage — uneven cleaning, debris on dishes
  • Door seal and latch leaks — water on floor, mid-cycle errors
  • Detergent dispenser and float switch faults — soap, overfilling
Learn More
Built-in dishwasher repair Longueuil

Stove Repair

Stoves are the one appliance you should never improvise repairs on. Gas leaks, exposed wiring, and faulty igniters all carry real consequences — and DIY video tutorials are no substitute for certified training. We work strictly to gas code standards, pressure-test every connection before leaving, and document each repair for your insurance records when requested.

What We Fix

  • Gas burner ignition — clicks but no flame, weak yellow flames
  • Electric coil and radiant element burnout — won't heat, uneven
  • Induction sensor faults — burners shutting off, no detection
  • Control knob and switch failures — broken, loose, unresponsive
  • Glass cooktop cracks and surface damage — safety inspection
Learn More
Gas stove repair Longueuil

Oven Repair

Twenty degrees off the dial can ruin baked goods that took hours to prepare — and most homeowners never realize the actual cavity temperature isn't matching what they dialed in. We measure real internal heat with a calibrated probe, fix whatever is drifting, and verify the result against your setpoint before we sign off. You'll bake at the exact temperature you pick.

What We Fix

  • Bake and broil element failures — uneven cooking, cold spots
  • Temperature sensor faults — runs too hot or too cold
  • Convection fan motor failures — uneven air circulation
  • Door hinge wear and seal damage — heat escaping, inconsistency
  • Igniter and control board issues — gas oven won't light, errors
Learn More
Wall oven repair Longueuil

Brands We Service

Genuine OEM parts and certified expertise for every major appliance brand on the market.

Rare or unlisted

Brand not listed?

We also service rare European imports, discontinued models, and commercial-grade units. Chances are, we've fixed yours before.

(450) 489-9024

Free Diagnostic Tool

Diagnose Your Issue
In Seconds

Pick your appliance, tell us what's wrong, and get an instant technical answer — no signup, no email required.

Step 1 of 3

What's giving you trouble?

Step 2 of 3

Fridge — what's wrong?

Step 2 of 3

Washer — what's wrong?

Step 2 of 3

Dryer — what's wrong?

Step 2 of 3

Dishwasher — what's wrong?

Step 2 of 3

Stove — what's wrong?

Step 2 of 3

Oven — what's wrong?

Step 3 of 3

Fridge › Not cooling properly

◆ Likely Cause

Most commonly caused by dirty condenser coils, a worn door seal, or incorrect temperature settings. Coils accumulate dust over time, forcing the compressor to overwork.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Pull the fridge away from the wall and vacuum the coils on the back or underneath.
  2. 2Test the door seal — close it on a piece of paper; it should hold firmly when pulled.
  3. 3Verify temperature settings: 4°C/40°F for fridge, -18°C/0°F for freezer.

Still Not Working?

If cooling doesn't improve within 24 hours, the sealed system or compressor likely needs certified diagnosis.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Fridge › Loud humming or buzzing

◆ Likely Cause

Either the compressor working harder than normal (often due to dirty coils), or the evaporator/condenser fan motor showing wear.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Move the fridge slightly away from the wall — vibrations against drywall amplify noise.
  2. 2Check that items inside aren't pressing against the back wall where the fan is located.
  3. 3Listen for the source: bottom-back = compressor, inside freezer = evaporator fan.

Still Not Working?

Persistent grinding or knocking sounds usually indicate a failing compressor or fan motor — both need professional replacement.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Fridge › Water pooling inside or under

◆ Likely Cause

Most often a blocked defrost drain line (water inside) or a leaking ice maker water inlet valve (water underneath).

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Locate the defrost drain at the back of the freezer floor — clear any ice or debris with warm water.
  2. 2Inspect the ice maker water supply line at the back for leaks or loose fittings.
  3. 3Check that the fridge is level — uneven appliances cause water flow issues.

Still Not Working?

If the drain clears but water returns, the drain heater or pan may need replacement. Active leaks should be addressed quickly to prevent floor damage.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Fridge › Ice maker not working

◆ Likely Cause

Usually a frozen water supply line, clogged water filter, or the ice maker's on/off switch accidentally disabled.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Check the ice maker switch — it's usually a small lever or button on the unit itself.
  2. 2Replace the water filter if it's older than 6 months.
  3. 3Run hot water over the supply line at the back to clear any ice blockage.

Still Not Working?

If still no ice, the water inlet valve, solenoid, or ice maker motor likely needs replacement — we'll diagnose precisely on-site.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Washer › Won't drain

◆ Likely Cause

Almost always a clogged drain pump filter or a kinked drain hose. The filter catches everything from coins to lint and blocks over time.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Locate the drain pump filter — usually behind a small panel on the front bottom of the washer.
  2. 2Place a shallow tray underneath, unscrew the filter, and clean any debris.
  3. 3Check the drain hose at the back for kinks or blockages.

Still Not Working?

If the filter is clean and the hose is clear, the drain pump motor itself has failed — a quick professional replacement.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Washer › Loud noise during spin

◆ Likely Cause

Usually foreign objects (coins, keys, underwire) caught between the drum and tub, or worn drum bearings showing their age.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Spin the empty drum by hand — listen for unusual sounds.
  2. 2Check pockets before washing and inspect the drum boot (rubber seal) for trapped items.
  3. 3Run a small load and redistribute if vibrations are extreme.

Still Not Working?

A loud grinding or rumbling that's worsened over time signals failing drum bearings — a major repair usually only worth it on newer machines.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Washer › Won't start / door locked

◆ Likely Cause

Often a door latch sensor issue or a control board reset needed after a power surge.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Unplug the washer for 60 seconds, then plug back in (resets the control board).
  2. 2Close the door firmly until you hear a click.
  3. 3Check that the child lock isn't accidentally activated.

Still Not Working?

If reset doesn't work, the door lock mechanism, control board, or wiring harness needs diagnosis — common but requires a technician.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Washer › Showing an error code

◆ Likely Cause

Error codes vary by brand but most indicate one of: drainage failure, door lock issue, temperature sensor fault, or water level error.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Note the exact code displayed (e.g., E5, F1, OE, dE).
  2. 2Unplug for 60 seconds and restart — many codes are temporary and reset.
  3. 3Check the user manual for your brand's specific code definitions.

Still Not Working?

Recurring codes need proper diagnosis with brand-specific tools. Tell us the code when you call — we'll arrive with the right parts.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dryer › Takes too long to dry

◆ Likely Cause

Most common cause is restricted airflow due to a clogged lint trap or blocked vent line. Weakening heating elements come second.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Clean the lint trap before every load (not just every few loads).
  2. 2Check the exterior vent flap — make sure it opens freely and isn't blocked by debris.
  3. 3Disconnect the vent line behind the dryer and clean lint buildup with a vent brush.

Still Not Working?

If airflow is unrestricted but drying still takes hours, the heating element or moisture sensor is worn — both are affordable professional repairs.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dryer › No heat at all

◆ Likely Cause

Usually a blown thermal fuse (safety device that trips on overheating), burned-out heating element, or for gas dryers, a faulty igniter.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Check the circuit breaker — dryers need full 240V power, so a single tripped breaker means no heat.
  2. 2Make sure the cycle is set to a heat option (not 'air dry' or 'fluff').
  3. 3Inspect the lint trap and vent — overheating from blocked airflow often blows the thermal fuse.

Still Not Working?

Thermal fuse replacement is affordable and common. If you've replaced one before and it's gone again, the underlying airflow issue must be resolved first.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dryer › Drum won't turn

◆ Likely Cause

Almost always a broken drive belt or, less commonly, a failed motor, broken idler pulley, or door switch issue.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Open the door and listen — if you hear the motor humming but no movement, it's likely the belt.
  2. 2Try turning the drum by hand — if it spins freely with no resistance, the belt is broken.
  3. 3Check that the door is firmly closed and the door switch clicks.

Still Not Working?

Belt replacement is straightforward but requires partial disassembly. We carry the most common belt sizes on the truck.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dryer › Loud squeaking or thumping

◆ Likely Cause

Worn drum rollers (high-pitched squeak), failed idler pulley (rhythmic squeak), or drum support bearings (deep thumping).

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Run an empty cycle and listen carefully — the sound location helps identify the part.
  2. 2Check for foreign objects: pens, coins, or zippers can lodge behind the drum.
  3. 3Ensure the dryer is level — an unbalanced unit amplifies wear-related noises.

Still Not Working?

These parts wear gradually but eventually fail completely. Replacing rollers and the idler pulley together is the most cost-effective approach.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dishwasher › Not draining

◆ Likely Cause

Usually a clogged filter at the bottom of the tub, food debris in the drain pump, or a kinked drain hose behind the unit.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Remove the cylinder-shaped filter at the bottom of the tub and rinse under hot water.
  2. 2Run your kitchen sink garbage disposal for 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher (clears the shared drain line).
  3. 3Pull the dishwasher slightly forward and check the drain hose for kinks.

Still Not Working?

If filter is clean and hose isn't kinked, the drain pump impeller may be jammed or the motor has failed — a quick professional replacement.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dishwasher › Leaking water

◆ Likely Cause

Most often a damaged door gasket, an overloaded dishwasher pushing water past the seal, or a cracked spray arm spraying water past the door.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Inspect the door gasket (rubber seal around the door) for tears, hardening, or debris.
  2. 2Load properly — leave the front row of the bottom rack clear so water doesn't hit the door directly.
  3. 3Check beneath the dishwasher for active leaks vs. condensation.

Still Not Working?

Persistent leaks despite gasket cleaning indicate a worn seal, pump leak, or hose connection failure — we'll trace the source instead of guessing.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dishwasher › Dishes coming out dirty

◆ Likely Cause

Clogged spray arm holes are the #1 cause, followed by hard water buildup on the heating element and low incoming water pressure.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Remove both spray arms (they typically unclip) and clear each hole with a toothpick.
  2. 2Run a cleaning cycle with a dishwasher cleaner or a cup of white vinegar in the empty tub.
  3. 3Check that the water supply valve under the sink is fully open.

Still Not Working?

If cleaning the spray arms doesn't help, the pump motor may be weak, the water inlet valve restricted, or the float switch stuck — all common but require diagnosis.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Dishwasher › Won't start

◆ Likely Cause

Usually the door isn't latched fully, the child lock is engaged, or a power issue at the breaker panel.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Push the door firmly until you hear a clean click — the latch must engage.
  2. 2Look for a child lock indicator on the control panel (usually a lock icon).
  3. 3Check the circuit breaker — dishwashers are typically on a dedicated circuit.

Still Not Working?

If none of those resolve it, the door latch switch, touchpad, or control board needs testing. A diagnostic call is the fastest way to identify which.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Stove › Gas burner won't ignite

◆ Likely Cause

Most commonly a clogged burner port preventing gas flow to the igniter spark, or a wet/dirty igniter ceramic.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Make sure the gas valve to the stove is fully open.
  2. 2Use a sewing pin to clear each tiny port around the burner cap.
  3. 3Wipe the white ceramic igniter dry — moisture from cleaning is a common cause.

Still Not Working?

If you hear clicking but get no flame, the spark module or gas valve needs replacement — professional repair for safety reasons.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Stove › Electric coil won't heat

◆ Likely Cause

Bad terminal connection where the coil plugs in, a burned-out coil, or a faulty infinite switch (the knob that controls heat level).

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Wiggle the coil at its base and ensure it's seated properly in the terminal block.
  2. 2Swap a known-working coil into the bad position — if it heats, you've got a coil issue.
  3. 3Check the terminal block for burn marks or corrosion.

Still Not Working?

Coils and terminal blocks are inexpensive parts but require electrical disassembly. We'll replace burned terminals (a fire hazard) at the same time.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Stove › Glass cooktop sensor error

◆ Likely Cause

Usually a dirty surface confusing touch sensors, a cracked glass affecting capacitive controls, or a control board fault.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Clean the entire glass surface with a dedicated cooktop cleaner — residue interferes with touch sensors.
  2. 2Reset the breaker for 30 seconds to clear any temporary control board errors.
  3. 3Check for visible cracks in the glass — even hairline cracks disrupt sensors.

Still Not Working?

Glass cooktops require specialized service. Sensor replacement or board diagnosis is not DIY-safe — call us for safe repair.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Stove › Knob broken or loose

◆ Likely Cause

Stripped knob stem (the splined plastic that connects knob to valve), broken internal clip, or worn valve shaft.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Pull the knob straight off and inspect the stem — looking for stripped or rounded edges.
  2. 2Compare to a working knob on the same stove for visual reference.
  3. 3Try a replacement knob ordered by your stove's model number.

Still Not Working?

If the valve shaft itself is damaged (not just the knob), we'll need to access the gas valve underneath — a more involved repair.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Oven › Not heating properly

◆ Likely Cause

The bake element (bottom) or broil element (top) has burned out, or the temperature sensor is sending wrong readings to the control board.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Set the oven to bake at 350°F and look through the door window — the bottom element should glow orange/red within minutes.
  2. 2Look for visible breaks, hot spots, or bubbling on the elements themselves.
  3. 3If the element appears intact, the temperature sensor may be faulty.

Still Not Working?

Element replacement is common and affordable — usually under an hour. Sensor faults require multimeter testing to confirm.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Oven › Temperature inaccurate

◆ Likely Cause

Most ovens drift 10-25°F off setpoint over years due to thermostat wear. Some brands allow calibration adjustments without parts replacement.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Place an oven thermometer on the center rack and run a 350°F cycle — let it stabilize for 20 minutes.
  2. 2Compare actual reading to the dial — note the difference.
  3. 3Check your manual for a calibration offset setting (many modern ovens have this).

Still Not Working?

If actual temperature differs by more than 25°F or won't hold steady, the temperature sensor or control board needs professional service.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Oven › Door won't close fully

◆ Likely Cause

Bent or worn door hinges, debris in hinge channels, or a sagging gasket pushing the door slightly out of alignment.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Open the door fully — look at both hinges for visible bending or damage.
  2. 2Clean any food debris from the hinge channels using a vacuum and damp cloth.
  3. 3Inspect the door gasket (silicone seal) for tears, brittleness, or compressed sections.

Still Not Working?

Hinge replacement requires removing the entire door, which is heavier than it looks. Worn gaskets affect cooking efficiency and should be replaced together.

(450) 489-9024

Step 3 of 3

Oven › Self-clean failed / door locked

◆ Likely Cause

Self-clean's extreme temperatures often blow the thermal fuse — a safety device that disables the oven. The door may stay locked because of this.

⚙ Try This First

  1. 1Let the oven cool completely (can take several hours after self-clean).
  2. 2Unplug the oven for 15 minutes, then plug back in — sometimes resets the door latch.
  3. 3Check the breaker — a tripped breaker won't release the door.

Still Not Working?

Blown thermal fuses are extremely common after self-clean cycles. The repair is straightforward but requires accessing the back — we'll arrive with the part.

(450) 489-9024

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Service Areas

We Cover All of Longueuil

Same-day appliance repair service across every borough and neighborhood — from Vieux-Longueuil to Greenfield Park.

Neighborhoods

Districts We Serve

Vieux-Longueuil

Saint-Hubert

Greenfield Park

Le Vieux-Saint-Hubert

Laflèche

Iberville

Le Mackayville

Vieux-Greenfield Park

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